Coyoacán's food scene is a little different than some of the other neighborhoods. There aren't a ton of trendy restaurants here trying to out-hipster or out-nouveau each other. There are, however, a lot of good places to get traditional Mexican food, not to mention numerous restaurants that have become citywide icons by sheer virtue of the fact that they've been here forever. These are some Coyoacán classics.
Cafe El Jarocho
There are aspects of Cafe El Jarocho that you could describe as "straightforward," or maybe "no-frills." They're cash-only. There's no seating. The lines are incredibly long. But that's not the whole story. That simplicity arises from a strong commitment to traditional Mexican coffee, and it turns out those lines are long for a reason. They roast their own beans here. (Which they'll deliver to you.) And while you can just get a simple cup of (very strong) black coffee, you can also get a massive array of cafe favorites—all the ones you're familiar with and a few you probably won't be, like café de olla and Mexican hot chocolate. It's worth the wait if you're in the neighborhood.
Restaurante San Ángel Inn
Located in a 17th-century Hacienda that served as, among other things, a monastery and an inn, this traditional Mexican restaurant is almost a tourist destination unto itself. But even if the trappings weren't gorgeous, the food is reason enough to make San Ángel Inn an essential stop on your Mexico City trip. If the courtyard is available for seating, request a seat outside. People sing the praises of the bar, from sangrias to cocktails. The margaritas, in particular, are singled out, and the food is only made better by the gorgeous historic location.
Los Danzantes
Located in the traditional Villa Coyoacán, Los Danzantes has been a neighborhood mainstay. There are a couple of locations, but Coyoacán is the original. Serving Mexican food with an internationally-influenced take, Los Danzantes also distils its own brand of mezcal and grows its own produce in its chinampa. Visitors love the food, and they specifically tend to love the mole. They're also quick to point out, however, that Los Danzantes is a bit pricier than other places in the same neighborhood.
Tostadas La Chaparrita
We mentioned Coyoacán's sense of history, right? Tostadas La Chaparrita is one of those great old places that's been there forever—in this case, "forever" means around 55 years. Roasted octopus, suckling pig, tinga, and more are served up on tostadas at this booth in the Mercado Coyoacán, very close to the Frida Kahlo Museum in La Casa Azul.
Tacos El Chupacabras
Tacos El Chupacabras is a street taco joint in an open-air food court. They staked their name originally on staying up until 4 in the morning and selling overstuffed tortillas to clubgoers who were shambling home. (Every college town has one of those, right?) Now, they're consistently referred to as—at minimum—one of the "top ten" taco places in all of Mexico City. Some would even call it the best.
(featured image via Flickr)
