Whatever else there is to say about Condesa's attractions, its claim to fame is the food. This boho neighborhood is part of a hipsterish block, along with Roma and a couple of other neighboring areas. Depending on where you're from, the trappings may either put you at ease or irritate you, but either way, you can't deny that the cuisine is great.
Azul Condesa
Azul Condesa is this neighborhood's branch of a small family of upscale, authentic Mexican restaurants. Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita is a good historian in addition to his pursuits in the kitchen, not to mention the author of the Diccionario Enciclopédico de la Gastronomía Mexicano. Dishes include Oaxacan moles, Yucatan dishes, and more. A seasonal menu also shows off various underappreciated Mexican states, with recipes put together by chefs from that state, in addition to Muñoz himself. That the menu changes so frequently is a blessing and a curse at once—people who dine here often enough seem to fall in love with everything on their plates.
Merotoro
Merotoro is the beautiful result of a collaboration between Tijuana chef Jair Téllez and Contramar owners Gabriela Cámara and Pablo Bueno. Téllez's love for Baja Californian cooking drives the restaurant (and the wine list), and Merotoro has become a destination unto itself here in Condesa. Anything with pork seems to be a winner, from braised pork to a pan-fried Iberian pork jowl. Profiles in publications like the New York Times bolstered the restaurant's profile in its beginnings and helped it get off to a roaring start. One thing to be aware of, it can be a bit pricey, but if you're going here, it's for the experience of eating here, not for a casual drop-in.
El Pescadito
El Pescadito is a fish taco place—inexpensive, flavorful, and well-loved. If you're turned off at the thought of waiting in line, this place may be a little too well-loved for you. This is actually part of a Mexican chain, but to hear people talk about how fresh the fish is, you'd never guess it was anywhere in the realm of fast food. Seafood like shrimp or marlin is served up in tacos, taquitos, and more in a fast, fresh, and informal manner.
Contramar
Contramar was one of the first places to really put the Mexico City spin on seafood. Popular local dishes like tuna tostadas and fish carnitas originated here, and the grilled fish is always fresh. This place fills up fast so either show up early or be prepared to contend with some crowds and noise. The desserts are also singled out for praise, and while coconut flan and banana cream pie have their staunch advocates, the fig tart may be one of the most universally-beloved dishes in the city. Given the restaurant's popularity, the prices have gone up some, but the general consensus is that it's worth it.
La Guapachosa
La Guapachosa puts a strong emphasis on beer—if you're looking for somewhere in the neighborhood to try local craft beers, this is a great place to do it. The food is no slouch, either. People wax enthusiastic about the tacos, whether they're beef, shrimp, scallop, or even grasshopper, and the guacamole comes highly recommended, as well. The atmosphere here is fairly straightforward and relaxed, as you might expect from a place that puts the beer front and center, so if you're looking for a low-key evening, you might start looking here.
(image via Flickr)
